Lately, my appetite hasn’t been up to par, but if there’s one place I’ve been craving, it’s Chambar. You wouldn’t expect to find such a gem on the outskirts of Chinatown, but location doesn’t stop Chambar from being what it is: a charming restaurant with warm service and mouth-watering Belgian cuisine.

As a dinner-only location, Chambar is always bathed in the warm glow of chandeliers and candlelight. The walls are lined with tables for two, with only a few spots for larger groups. Dapper servers are always hurrying about, but to date, have been courteous and attentive without fail. The atmosphere is far from casual, but it’s hard not to feel at home.

Much like the atmosphere, the food has a definite sophistication, but there’s comfort in the delivery; it’s probably the fries. Arriving with each of my entrees has been a delectable side of pommes frites, served with what I suspect to be a smoked-garlic tartar sauce. I hate to say it, but oftentimes, I find myself picking at the fries more than the main course – much like this review.

Though my hand reaches for fries more often than my fork, that’s not to say the entrees don’t hold their own. If you love mussels, the Kwak ($10), an amber beer with bitter-orange overtones, is a curious entry. Each bottle is served in a flared glass with a rounded bottom, and held by a wooden stand. Supposedly, inventor Pauwel Kwak designed the apparatus for coachmen. So much for driving sober.

If you have a taste for Belgian cuisine (or mussels for that matter), you owe it to yourself to visit Chambar. Just be sure to make early reservations; they’re booked most nights.